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Hemingway Adventure

Ernest Hemingway was a great writer, a great drinker but people forget he was also a great traveller. He enjoyed life in some highly photogenic locations like Cuba, Kenya, Paris, Spain and Key West. The running of the bulls in Pamplona was a feast for Basil’s camera, as was the fantastic Fallas festival in Valencia, the noisiest firework display in the world.

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Oak Park, Illinois, U.S.A.

Ernest Hemingway. Born July 21, 1899, Oak Park, Illinois, U.S.A.

Oak Park, U.S.A.

Oak Park, Illinois, U.S.A.

'Who’s that girl?' Early photos of young Ernest confuse visitors at his birthplace.

Oak Park, U.S.A.

Oak Park, Illinois, U.S.A.

Ernest Hall, Sheffield-born grandfather of Ernest (with weapon), Ursula and Marcelline.

Oak Park, U.S.A.

Oak Park, Illinois, U.S.A.

Marcelline, Madelaine, Clarence, Grace, Ursula and Ernest (still to come, Carol and Leicester). Oak Park 1906.

Oak Park, U.S.A.

Oak Park, Illinois, U.S.A.

The front of 339 Oak Park Avenue looks naked with its porch removed for Hemingway centenary restoration.

Oak Park, U.S.A.

Petoskey, Michigan, U.S.A.

The public library on Mitchell Street, Petoskey. Here in 1919 Hemingway read the papers, borrowed books and gave speeches about his war experience to delighted female audiences.

Petoskey, U.S.A.

Windemere, Walloon Lake, Michigan, U.S.A.

Windemere, the Hemingway holiday home today.

Windemere, Walloon Lake, U.S.A.

Horton Bay, Michigan, U.S.A.

Horton Bay, Michigan, inspiration for Hemingway’s earliest published stories and very little changed.

Horton Bay, U.S.A.

Horton Creek, Michigan, U.S.A.

Picture postcard time. On Horton Creek, one of the shallow streams of north Michigan, Hemingway perfected his fishing technique (opposite top left) and Palin abandoned his. You can almost hear the steelhead trout sighing with relief as my canoe comes towards them.

Horton Creek, U.S.A.

Kewadin Casino, Sault Sainte Marie, Michigan, U.S.A.

Chance meeting with a Native American slot-machine swallower on the way to Kewadin Casino, Sault Sainte Marie, Michigan - which earns 50 million dollards a year for the Chippewa tribe.

Kewadin Casino, Sault Sainte Marie, U.S.A.

Chicago River, Chicago, Michigan, U.S.A.

Crossing the Chicago River, leaving behind the glossy corporate skyscrapers on the less than glossy train to Oak Park.

Chicago River, Chicago, U.S.A.

Chicago, Michigan, U.S.A.

Ernest and his first wife, Hadley Richardson. He was twenty-two when they married, twenty-eight when they divorced in Paris.

Chicago, U.S.A.

Chicago, Michigan, U.S.A.

The oldest modern city in the world. Chicago at sunset from the ninety-sixth floor of the Hancock Center.

Chicago, U.S.A.

Milan Central, Milan, Italy

Milan Central, my gateway to north Italy. Completed in 1931, it is on a monumental scale with five arched rail sheds, and a 700-foot-long concourse that's more like a cathedral. Décor is Art Nouveau with Fascist triumphalism thrown in. Mussolini was determined not just to make the trains run on time, but to make them run into the greatest stations in the world.

Milan Central, Milan, Italy

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Milan, Italy

On his first night young Hemingway walked beneath the soaring glass roof of the Galleria – the world’s first great shopping mall.

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Milan, Italy

Milan, Italy

Ernest was in uniform before his eighteenth birthday.

Milan, Italy

Milan, Italy

Many subsequent nights, recovering after his injury, were spent falling in love with his American nurse, one of the few women known to have jilted Ernest.

Milan, Italy

Milan, Italy

The wounded hero, Milan 1918. The story of A Farewell to Arms was born out of what happened here.

Milan, Italy

Piave River, Fossalta di Piave, Italy

Hemingway borrowed a bicycle to take him up to the front line. He would have travelled roads like these.

Piave River, Fossalta di Piave, Italy

Piave River, Fossalta di Piave, Italy

The Piave river at Fossalta. The Italian positions were on the left bank, Austrian on the right, when battle began at midnight on 8 July 1918.

Piave River, Fossalta di Piave, Italy

Piave valley, Fossalta di Piave, Italy

A farmhouse in the flatlands of the Piave valley at Fossalta.

Piave valley, Fossalta di Piave, Italy

Redipuglia War Memorial, Fogliano Redipuglia, Italy

Mussolini made sure the First World War dead would not be forgotten with a memorial that takes up an entire hillside.

Redipuglia War Memorial, Fogliano Redipuglia, Italy

Redipuglia War Memorial, Fogliano Redipuglia, Italy

The memorial commemorates over a hundred thousand Italians killed on the Eastern front in the First World War.

Redipuglia War Memorial, Fogliano Redipuglia, Italy

St Mark’s Square, Venice, Italy

Venice carnival in full swing in St Mark’s Square. Masks traditionally disguise social differences and serious celebrants order theirs a year early. In 1646 diarist John Evelyn described it as ‘folly and madness’.

St Mark’s Square, Venice, Italy

Grand Canal, Venice, Italy

Barone Alberto Franchetti looking out from his family palazzo on the Grand Canal, where parking (opposite top) is a problem at carnival time.

Grand Canal, Venice, Italy

Cáorle, Italy

Duck-shooting in the marshes east of Venice. In a barrel with the Barone. Most ducks ignored us.

Cáorle, Italy

Auberge de Venise a.k.a. the Dingo Bar, Paris, France

Cézanne, another great influence on Hemingway’s writing. Hemingway, Harold Loeb, Lady Duff Twysden; Hadley, Don Stewart and Pat Guthrie.

Auberge de Venise a.k.a. the Dingo Bar, Paris, France

Musée Picasso, Paris, France

Checking out Cézanne, another great influence on Hemingway's writing, in the Musée Picasso.

Musée Picasso, Paris, France

Rue du Cardinal Lemoine, Paris, France

Climbing the stairs to Hemingway's apartment in the then highly unfashionable are of rue du Cardinal Lemoine.

Rue du Cardinal Lemoine, Paris, France

Rue Mouffetard, Paris, France

View from the kitchen window of the apartment on the rue Mouffetard.

Rue Mouffetard, Paris, France

Rue Mouffetard, Paris, France

The steep winding street that was Ernest and Hadley Hemingway's first stamping ground in Paris in 1922. They thought the seedy, slightly run-down feel of the area romantic and adventurous.

Rue Mouffetard, Paris, France

Shakespeare and Company, Paris, France

Shakespeare and Company, Valhalla for book lovers. George Whitman believes in total literary immersion, including sleeping accommodation amongst the shelves, Sunday tea and Christmas Day opening.

Shakespeare and Company, Paris, France

La Closerie des Lilas, Paris, France

La Closerie des Lilas was one of Hemingway’s favourite places to drink and write.

La Closerie des Lilas, Paris, France

Paris, France

Hemingway, wounded by a falling skylight, left Paris in 1928.

Paris, France

Paris, France

Hemingway returned to ‘the city I love best in all the world’ when it was liberated from the Germans in 1944.

Paris, France

Paris, France

Fifty-five years after liberation, I storm up to the Arc de Triompe in a Second World War American tank.

Paris, France

Paris, France

After being stopped by the gendarmes, unable to start again. Film crew try the impossible, push-starting a tank.

Paris, France

Jardin de la Tour Eiffel, Paris, France

Jardin de la Tour Eiffel

Jardin de la Tour Eiffel, Paris, France

Hotel La Perla, Pamplona, Spain

The calm before the storm. Pause for reflection at the Hotel La Perla, with bulls who've already run their course.

Hotel La Perla, Pamplona, Spain

Pamplona, Spain

The Pamplona squeeze. Huge, soggy crowd cheers the start of an eight-day party.

Pamplona, Spain

Calle Estafeta, Pamplona, Spain

Bulls enter the Calle Estafeta, as I watch from the balcony of the room used by Hemingway in the 1920s.

Calle Estafeta, Pamplona, Spain

Madrid, Spain

In Madrid, football supporters don’t care too much about the Hemingway connection.

Madrid, Spain

Escuela de Tauromaquia, Madrid, Spain

Apprentice plays bull as I learn, far too late in life, to wield the muleta and strut like a matador.

Escuela de Tauromaquia, Madrid, Spain

Fallas Festival, Valencia, Spain

Valencia's Fallas Festival. In March irreverent papier mâché models of just about anything to do with everyday life rise on the street corners of Spain's third largest city. A papier mâché model of Spielberg looms over the Titanic and assorted Oscars.

Fallas Festival, Valencia, Spain

Fallas Festival, Valencia, Spain

Fallas processions.

Fallas Festival, Valencia, Spain

Fallas Festival, Valencia, Spain

A fallera, one of the women in national dress who lead the neighbourhood groups in processions through the city.

Fallas Festival, Valencia, Spain

Valencia, Spain

At a local tiled bar - a mesón - I meet bullfighter Vicente Barrera. He's a trained lawyer and as clean-cut as a choirboy. Difficult to square his appearance with the fact that he kills over two hundred bulls a year. His grandfather, also Vicente Barrera, appears in Hemingway's Death in the Afternoon (1932).

Valencia, Spain

Plaza del Ayuntamiento, Valencia, Spain

Every day at two o'clock a crowd engulfs Valencia's main square to be blasted by the mighty explosive event they call Mascletá.

Plaza del Ayuntamiento, Valencia, Spain

Plaza de Toros de Valencia, Valencia, Spain

At the corrida (the bullfight) in Valencia. Vicente, bedeckedin traje de luces, his suit of lights, completes a pass.

Plaza de Toros de Valencia, Valencia, Spain

Fallas Festival, Valencia, Spain

All that's left of a year's painstaking design and construction.

Fallas Festival, Valencia, Spain

Fallas Festival, Valencia, Spain

King of the Fallas - a fifty-foot-high model of Gulliver is the last of the effigies to be torched. It is designed to collapse in on itself, but the fire brigade are out in force spraying the surrounding trees and buildings as the heat becomes intense.

Fallas Festival, Valencia, Spain

Fallas Festival, Valencia, Spain

Surreal moment. Gulliver has gone, but some of his companions have missed the flames.

Fallas Festival, Valencia, Spain

Seven Mile Bridge, Key West, Florida, U.S.A.

Seven Mile Bridge carries the Overseas Highway through the coral islands of the Florida Keys, course of the old railroad to the left of the highway.

Seven Mile Bridge, Key West, U.S.A.

Mallory Square, Key West, Florida, U.S.A.

Modern tourist development. Mallory Square, Key West.

Mallory Square, Key West, U.S.A.

Mallory Square, Key West, Florida, U.S.A.

Marlin, the best game fish in the world, drew Hemingway to Key West.

Mallory Square, Key West, U.S.A.

Sloppy Joe’s, Key West, Florida, U.S.A.

The newest Sloppy Joe’s celebrates Hemingway’s 100th anniversary.

Sloppy Joe’s, Key West, U.S.A.

Hemingway's House, Key West, Florida, U.S.A.

Writer in residence.

Hemingway's House, Key West, U.S.A.

Sloppy Joe's, Key West, Florida, U.S.A.

Local aficionado at the Hemingway Look-Alike competition.

Sloppy Joe's, Key West, U.S.A.

Sloppy Joe's, Key West, Florida, U.S.A.

The men who would be Ernest. Kevin the cop (top row, extreme left) and the Look-Alike class of ’99.

Sloppy Joe's, Key West, U.S.A.

Sloppy Joe's, Key West, Florida, U.S.A.

The men who would be Ernest. The Look-Alike class of ’99 continued. Winner gets to wear a medal inscribed ‘In Papa We Trust’. The winner was local boy ‘Big Rick’ Kirvan, bottom row extreme right.

Sloppy Joe's, Key West, U.S.A.

Key West, Florida, U.S.A.

Shine Forbes, the man who slugged Hemingway and lived to tell the tale, shows me some of Hemingway's tricks.

Key West, U.S.A.

Key West, Florida, U.S.A.

Shine’s front room, an Aladdin’s cave collected over eighty-three years.

Key West, U.S.A.

Sloppy Joe's, Key West, Florida, U.S.A.

Schmoozing with the judges (all previous winners) at the Look-Alike competition.

Sloppy Joe's, Key West, U.S.A.

Amboseli National Park, Kenya

Big game drew Hemingway to Africa in the 1930s. His old stamping ground is now Amboseli National Park, Kenya.

Amboseli National Park, Kenya

Amboseli National Park, Kenya

Seeing game on foot is not an option for most tourists, but it was the way Hemingway preferred to do it. Thanks to my trusty escorts, Ali in the cap and Jackson in the Masai robe, I see more than most visitors to these plains.

Amboseli National Park, Kenya

Chyulu Hills, Kenya

With Richard Bonham (like Hemingway, an Honorary Game Warden), taking a look at the constipated cheetah. When it’s well enough Richard will release it back into the wild. It’s ‘half-tame’ according to Richard, but it turns half-wild when I try to pat it on the head.

Chyulu Hills, Kenya

Chyulu Hills, Kenya

The inspiring first sight of Kilimanjaro from a light plane. Kibo, the 19,340-foot summit, is on the right.

Chyulu Hills, Kenya

Chyulu Hills, Kenya

The day of a circumcision ceremony at a Masai village. The grandmother of the circumcised boy mixes blood and milk outside his hut.

Chyulu Hills, Kenya

Chyulu Hills, Kenya

Blood is taken from one of the cows.

Chyulu Hills, Kenya

Chyulu Hills, Kenya

Lighting a fire with sticks for the feast later in the day.

Chyulu Hills, Kenya

Chyulu Hills, Kenya

Inside the hut: grandmother and mother tend to the boy (behind the curtain) who will take two weeks to recover.

Chyulu Hills, Kenya

Chyulu Hills, Kenya

Comedy spear-throwing. Young Masai warriors cracking up.

Chyulu Hills, Kenya

Murchison Falls, Uganda

Rescuers at the Hemingways’ plane after it crash-landed beside the Murchison Falls, Uganda.

Murchison Falls, Uganda

Murchison Falls, Uganda

Hemingway made camp on high ground beside the Nile to avoid local wildlife, such as sunbathing crocodile.

Murchison Falls, Uganda

Nile River, Murchison Falls, Uganda

On the Nile Francis picks his way through dangerous whirlpools and foam from the falls ahead.

Nile River, Murchison Falls, Uganda

Butiaba, Uganda

At the site of Hemingway’s second air crash in two days. With Abdul and pieces of the wreckage.

Butiaba, Uganda

Masindi Hotel, Masindi, Uganda

Hemingway after the second crash, when he suffered burns and internal injuries from which he never fully recovered.

Masindi Hotel, Masindi, Uganda

Masindi, Uganda

At barber’s shop in Masindi. The result is considered so unusual that I'm given the honour of having my very own style - Number 8, and an on-the-spot portrait which makes me look startlingly like Colonel Gaddafi.

Masindi, Uganda

Havana, Cuba

Private cars are a luxury and so there’s plenty of room for pedestrians on Havana’s famous seafront thoroughfare, the Malecón.

Havana, Cuba

Havana, Cuba

American cars seem to have survived Castro’s Communist revolution, though many of them now have Russian engines. Alfredo (filling the tank) remembers seeing Hemingway driving through Havana in a jeep.

Havana, Cuba

Finca Vigía, Havana, Cuba

The Finca Vigía, ‘Look-Out Farm’, Hemingway’s Cuban home for twenty years. Hemingway on the driveway followed by one of the fifty-seven cats. The house was found for him by his third wife, Martha Gellhorn. Lippia, Areca and other varieties of palm trees in abundance.

Finca Vigía, Havana, Cuba

Finca Vigía, Havana, Cuba

One of the sacred typewriters being lovingly cleaned by the staff.

Finca Vigía, Havana, Cuba

Finca Vigía, Havana, Cuba

On the outside looking in. Because of the delicate state of Hemingway’s perfectly preserved possessions you have to be stuffed, or working for the BBC, to get inside the house.

Finca Vigía, Havana, Cuba

Finca Vigía, Havana, Cuba

Hemingway’s favourite boat, the Pilar, enshrined in the grounds of Finca Vigía. He left it to his captain Gregorio Fuentes, who in turn left it to the government.

Finca Vigía, Havana, Cuba

Floridita, Havana, Cuba

Floridita, Hemingway's favourite Havana hostelry. The daiquiri was its speciality, but Hemingway insisted on a stronger version which they called the Papa Doble.

Floridita, Havana, Cuba

Floridita, Havana, Cuba

Hemingway holds court at the Floridita with Mary, his 4th wife, on his left. He liked to run the show even if Spencer Tracy was next to him.

Floridita, Havana, Cuba

Floridita, Havana, Cuba

Forty years on Hemingway’s gone, but the Papa Doble lives on. I'm on my third. I can sit at his end of the bar, but his bar-stool is roped off.

Floridita, Havana, Cuba

Cojímar, Havana, Cuba

Is it George V or Lenin? Ernest Hemingway's non-likeness is made from melted brass off the fishing boats of Cojímar, the village from which Pilar often set out. The memorial on the waterfront is a tribute from the locals.

Cojímar, Havana, Cuba

Cojímar, Cuba

Gregorio Fuentes tells me of the heydays with Hemingway at Cojímar where Hemingway kept his boat. 101 and still smoking. The eyes are extraordinary.

Cojímar, Cuba

Cojímar, Havana, Cuba

At the boat-yard in Cojímar with the man whose grandson calls him 'a living museum'. And a living source of income - tourists can visit him in his little house for fifty dollars a time.

Cojímar, Havana, Cuba

Cojímar, Havana, Cuba

Hemingway working the Gulf Stream. Trying my luck on the Great Blue River, the best marlin waters in the world.

Cojímar, Havana, Cuba

Cojímar, Havana, Cuba

No luck today, which is why they call it fishing, not catching.

Cojímar, Havana, Cuba

Havana, Cuba

The city is a transport time warp. I’m riding a motorcycle side-car taxi.

Havana, Cuba

Bozeman, Montana, U.S.A.

The Big Country. My first time in Montana and Wyoming and I feel swallowed up by the landscape. Montana's rolling, uninhibited and expansive country.

Bozeman, U.S.A.

Yellowstone National Park, Montana, U.S.A.

My one-ton Ford pick-up truck is dwarfed by the forests of Yellowstone National Park, scorched by the huge fires of 1988.

Yellowstone National Park, U.S.A.

Yellowstone National Park, Montana, U.S.A.

Bison herds were once so big that it took early explorers like Lewis and Clark ten days to ride through them. Now the sight of a solitary bison brings cars to a halt on the road. Signs warn that these animals are 'wild, unpredictable and dangerous'.

Yellowstone National Park, U.S.A.

Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming, U.S.A.

Fountain Paint Pot. Thermal energy bubbles, squelches and hisses to the surface.

Yellowstone National Park, U.S.A.

Corral Bar, Big Sky, U.S.A.

Pre-hunting breakfast at the Corral Bar. The men talk of the liberties and responsibilities of the hunter. These are not trophy hunters; they may take days to stalk one elk.

Corral Bar, Big Sky, U.S.A.

Belgrade, Montana, U.S.A.

Taxidermist in Outlaw Drive. The front office and recent clients (including stuffed author).

Belgrade, U.S.A.

Hargrave Ranch, Marion, Montana, U.S.A.

Leo and Ellen - our heavenly hosts at the Hargrave Ranch.

Hargrave Ranch, Marion, U.S.A.

Hargrave Ranch, Marion, Montana, U.S.A.

‘Wrist and elbow’. All you need to remember when throwing a lasso, according to Ken, my rope coach.

Hargrave Ranch, Marion, U.S.A.

Hargrave Ranch, Marion, Montana, U.S.A.

The first time I’ve felt comfortable on a horse. Riding a Palomino at the Hargrave Ranch, Montana.

Hargrave Ranch, Marion, U.S.A.

Hargrave Ranch, Marion, Montana, U.S.A.

The Magnificent Six bring the cattle back home. Less of a stampede, more like rounding up a crèche. But it was our first day.

Hargrave Ranch, Marion, U.S.A.

Ketchum, Idaho, U.S.A.

Hemingway's last home, in Ketchum, Idaho. Tragic history but a magnificent setting. Clouds rise high over the Sawtooth Mountains to the north.

Ketchum, U.S.A.

Ketchum, Idaho, U.S.A.

Late daylight spills on to the entrance porch where Hemingway took his own life on 2 July 1961.

Ketchum, U.S.A.

Ketchum, Idaho, U.S.A.

The sitting-room at night. With big picture window and stairway to bedroom at right of fireplace.

Ketchum, U.S.A.

Ketchum, Idaho, U.S.A.

Hemingway’s physical and mental health deteriorated fast in his last years out west.

Ketchum, U.S.A.

Ketchum Cemetery, Ketchum, Idaho, U.S.A.

Wrought-iron work above gates of Ketchum cemetery.

Ketchum Cemetery, Ketchum, U.S.A.

Ketchum Cemetery, Ketchum, Idaho, U.S.A.

The end of the journey. Hemingway’s grave at Ketchum. Mary, his wife for fifteen years, lies beside him under the spruce trees.

Ketchum Cemetery, Ketchum, U.S.A.

While every effort has been made to trace copyright holders of content included within this gallery, if any have inadvertently been overlooked, themichaelpalin.com will be pleased to acknowledge them.

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